A Goan Christmas, Mangoes, Memories, and Pickles

The fruit of abundance: mangoes in art, spirituality, and a Goan pickle recipe

Dec 16, 2024

Mangoes - A Celebration of Culture, Flavour, and Abundance

Mangoes are more than just a fruit; they are deeply rooted in culture, history, and personal memories. Yesterday, I shared my childhood reflections of eating mangoes in the schoolyard, so today we leap forward a few decades to a Christmas I once spent in Goa. I had a few days to indulge in culinary delights before entering a two-week Ayurvedic retreat, making it a time to explore, savour, and prepare for what lay ahead.

That Christmas morning, I came upon a cathedral and spontaneously attended the Mass. To my surprise and delight, Christmas cake was served in place of the host, a joyful treat it was. This simple yet unexpected twist captured the warmth and richness of Goan culture, where food is a celebration and flavours are woven into every moment, even spiritual ones.

For me, mangoes tie deeply into that Christmas in Goa, where they featured prominently, not just on the plate but as part of the region’s cultural and culinary fabric. Those days were filled with sensory delights: the tang of green mangoes in pickles, the heady aroma of spices, and the warmth of the Goan sun.

Beyond the personal, mangoes carry a deeper spiritual resonance. The mango tree holds a special place in Buddhist tradition, associated with peace, wisdom, and miraculous events in the life of the Buddha. According to Buddhist teachings, the Buddha performed several miracles under the shade of mango trees, their branches offering refuge and connection to the natural world. In this way, the mango tree becomes not only a provider of nourishment but also a symbol of serenity and enlightenment, reminding us of the harmony between nature and the sacred.

At the forest’s edge, circa 1765, Lucknow, gouache and gold on paper. Photo courtesy of The Cleveland Museum of Arts

The link between mangoes and abundance is also beautifully reflected in Indian art. One painting that resonates with this theme is At the forest’s edge, painted in the style of Hunhar II, it portrays a tree laden with ripe mangoes, ready to be plucked. These mangoes symbolize fertility and plenty, blending with the joyful scene of women frolicking in a river and the approaching rains that promise to nourish the land.

This imagery, though loosely connected, reminds me of the tropics and of Goa, its lush landscapes, the festive spirit of Christmas, and the culinary treasures that define its cuisine. Here in the tropics, the rains have finally arrived after weeks of searing heat, bringing relief and renewal to the land. It’s a reminder of how the cycles of nature, just like mango season, offer abundance in their own time.

It was during that Goan Christmas that I first tasted Bharillyo Amlo, a traditional Goan mango pickle made with firm green immature mangoes. Its bold flavours, tart, tangy, and infused with spice, perfectly capture the essence of Goan cuisine, shaped by its unique blend of Indian and Portuguese influences.

Today, I’m sharing my version of this recipe, inspired by the vibrant flavours I experienced during that memorable Christmas in Goa. But before we dive into the recipe, let’s take a moment to explore the history and nutrition of mangoes, as well as their fascinating role in both art and health.

Christmas in Goa, and Fruit stall selling freshly cut and spiced fruit

Historical Notes on Mangoes

Mangoes (Mangifera indica L.), often called the "king of fruits," trace their origins back over 5,000 years to the lush tropical regions of northeastern India, Bangladesh, and Myanmar. They hold a revered place in South Asian culture, woven into mythology, art, and religious practices. Hindu legends frequently associate mangoes with prosperity and love, and they appear as sacred offerings in rituals and festivals. It’s even recorded that Shakyamuni Buddha meditated in the shade of a mango grove with his followers, underscoring the fruit’s spiritual significance.

The global journey of mangoes began during the 16th century with the Portuguese, who introduced the fruit to Africa and South America via their trade routes. The Portuguese influence is evident in Goa, where mangoes are celebrated not only as a fruit but also as a key ingredient in its culinary heritage, from pickles to desserts. Today, mangoes are cultivated in tropical and subtropical climates worldwide, symbolizing abundance and cultural richness.

Mango Nutrition: A Sweet and Healthy Powerhouse

Mangoes are not only a culinary delight but also a nutritional powerhouse. A single cup of sliced mango provides approximately 66% of the recommended daily intake of vitamin C, supporting immune health, collagen production, and iron absorption. Mangoes are also rich in vitamin A, which is essential for vision, skin health, and immune function. Vitamin B6 in mangoes can support brain development and neurotransmitter function.

In addition to vitamins, mangoes are a great source of potassium and magnesium, minerals that help regulate blood pressure and support heart health. Their dietary fibre content aids digestion, promotes gut health, and contributes to feelings of fullness. Mangoes also contain polyphenols like mangiferin, a powerful antioxidant with anti-inflammatory properties. The combination of sweetness, low-calorie content, and nutrient density makes mangoes a guilt-free indulgence that’s as beneficial as it is delicious.

Mango Consumption and Herpes Simplex Virus Activation

The interplay between dietary amino acids and herpes simplex virus (HSV) activation is well-documented, particularly concerning the balance between L-arginine and L-lysine. HSV requires arginine as a substrate for replication, and lysine can counteract this process by competitively inhibiting the uptake of arginine. This lysine-arginine antagonism has been explored as a dietary strategy for managing HSV outbreaks.

Mangoes, while primarily recognised for their high vitamin and antioxidant content, also contain amino acids, including arginine and lysine. Studies suggest that lysine supplementation or a diet emphasizing lysine-rich foods can help mitigate HSV reactivation by decreasing the availability of arginine to the virus. Conversely, diets rich in arginine or with an unfavourable lysine-to-arginine ratio can increase susceptibility to viral replication.

While mangoes are not particularly high in arginine compared to other foods like nuts or chocolate, their arginine content could still play a role for individuals sensitive to HSV activation, especially if consumed in large quantities. However, the relatively balanced lysine-to-arginine ratio in mangoes may help mitigate this risk compared to other arginine-dominant foods.

Individuals prone to HSV outbreaks may benefit from monitoring their intake of arginine-rich foods and balancing them with lysine-rich alternatives such as dairy, legumes, and fish. While mangoes can generally be enjoyed as part of a varied diet, those with frequent HSV episodes might consider consuming them in moderation, particularly during times of increased stress or immune suppression, which are known triggers for viral reactivation.

Now that I’ve covered this, lets get into the yummy bits.

Salted mangoes before pressing on left, after pressing on right

Bharillyo Amlo - Goan Stuffed Mango Pickle

Ingredients

8-12 raw green mangoes (with soft seeds) (depending on the size)
115 gms fresh turmeric – grated or ground (can substitute ground turmeric
100 gms whole Kashmiri chilies or ground
45 gms black mustard seeds
30 gms fenugreek seeds
2 tbsp black peppercorns
1 tsp asafoetida (hing)
100 ml mustard seed oil
100 ml sesame oil
Kosher coarse salt or sea salt without iodine

Method

Prepare the Mangoes

Wash and thoroughly dry the mangoes.
Make four lengthwise cuts halfway through each mango, ensuring they remain intact.
Carefully remove and discard the seeds using the handle of a spoon, if necessary. You can leave this step until after the pressing, it is easier.

Salting Process

Generously stuff each mango with coarse salt.
Place the salted mangoes in a large stainless-steel bowl. Cover with a clean plate and apply a heavy weight on top (a mortar, pot, or equivalent works well).
Leave for 5 days, turning them once daily. The mangoes will release liquid and soften, turning olive green in colour.

Prepare the Brine

Drain the mangoes, reserving the liquid (brine) in a separate container.
Heat the brine in a pot until it froths, then remove it from the heat. Allow it to cool completely before use.

Prepare the Spice Mix

Lightly roast the fresh turmeric with some of the oil, remove from the pan then roast the rest of the spices, whole Kashmiri chilies, black mustard seeds, fenugreek seeds, and black peppercorns separately in a dry pan until fragrant. Allow to cool before grinding.
Grind the roasted spices in a spice grinder.

Prepare the Oil

Heat the mustard seed oil in a pan until it reaches its smoking point. Add the asafoetida, then remove from the heat immediately and allow it to cool.
Once cooled, mix the mustard seed oil with the sesame oil.

Make the Spice Paste

Use some of the cooled oil and the reserved brine to grind the spice mix into a thick, stable paste. You won’t need all the oil—use just enough to form a smooth paste and reserve the rest for later.

Stuff the Mangoes

Fill each mango with the prepared spice paste, ensuring the slits are packed well. Secure the mangoes tightly with twine to prevent the stuffing from spilling out, or just press them closed and place carefully into the bottle to prevent them from spilling.

Assemble the Pickle

Place the stuffed mangoes into a sterilized jar or container.
Pour the remaining oil over the mangoes, ensuring they are completely submerged. Add more oil if necessary to fully cover the mangoes.
Seal the jar tightly and let it mature at room temperature for 10 to 15 days.

Storage

After the initial maturation period, store the pickle in the refrigerator for long-term preservation. When properly stored, the pickle can last up to a year.

Notes:

The salted water from the mango press will froth when boiled—this is normal. Simply remove it from the heat and allow it to cool before use.
The balance of mustard seed oil and sesame oil enhances the flavour and ensures proper preservation.
Using a stainless-steel bowl for pressing is ideal for easy cleaning and durability.

Goan Stuffed Mango Pickle

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Left Seeds removed from mangoes, Right, Stuffed mangoes before bottling

Serving suggestions

As a Condiment with Rice and Curry

The pickle pairs beautifully with steamed rice and a simple dal or Goan curry. Its tangy flavour provides a perfect contrast to the creamy or spicy notes of curries, adding depth and complexity to the meal.

With Indian Breads

Serve Bharillyo Amlo alongside warm chapatis, parathas, or puris. The pickle’s robust flavor complements the soft, flaky texture of the bread, making it a delightful accompaniment for a simple meal or a festive spread.

Enhance a Thali

Add a small portion of this pickle to an Indian thali (traditional platter), where it shines among a variety of dishes like vegetables, dals, yogurt, and chutneys. Its distinct tanginess and spice bring balance to the ensemble.

As a Spicy Side with Snacks

Pair the pickle with fried snacks like samosas, pakoras, or even vada pav. The punchy, spicy notes of the pickle cut through the richness of fried foods, creating a harmonious contrast.

With Non-Indian Dishes

Get creative by incorporating the pickle into non-Indian meals. Use it as a relish in sandwiches or wraps, or serve it as a zesty accompaniment to roasted vegetables, grilled meats, or seafood.

As a Cheese Board Addition

Surprisingly, Bharillyo Amlo works well on a cheese platter. Its spicy and tangy notes complement aged or creamy cheeses, adding a unique twist to the classic pairing of cheese and preserves.

As a Flavour Booster

A small spoonful of the pickle can transform plain dishes like mashed potatoes, scrambled eggs, or even pasta. Stir a bit into soups or stews for a punch of tangy, spiced flavour.

Simply as it Is

Sometimes, the best way to enjoy Bharillyo Amlo is to savor it on its own. A small piece of the mango, coated in the aromatic spice paste, can be a flavor-packed treat when you crave something tangy and bold.

I have a few more mango recipes coming up this week, so keep an eye out for my next posts, you’ll be please to have these recipes in your summer recipe file.

An honourable mention must certainly go to

Lucy House

who shared her mango tart recipe this last week amongst her inspiring post on Eating Good Food.

Reference

Griffith, Richard S., Donald C. DeLong, and Janet D. Nelson. "Relation of arginine-lysine antagonism to herpes simplex growth in tissue culture." Chemotherapy 27.3 (1981): 209-213.
Pedrazini, Maria Cristina, Mariliza Henrique da Silva, and Francisco Carlos Groppo. "L‐lysine: its antagonism with L‐arginine in controlling viral infection. Narrative literature review." British Journal of Clinical Pharmacology 88.11 (2022): 4708-4723.